Little Rocks, Stubbed Toes

There are a couple of simple pleasures that I enjoy on a road trip. The most important of these is squeegeeing (yes, that's a word) my windshield. There are some high quality squeegees, and some lower quality ones, some with long handles and some with short. Sometimes there are bugs in the washing solution (a scary looking bee and a grasshopper, so far) and sometimes you wake up so early in the morning that the gas station attendants have just filled the buckets with new, clear, clean solution. This was the case yesterday morning as I pulled out of OKC and I felt like the first person in the world to ever squeegee. My squeegeeing experiences, my stop at Cracker Barrel (to return Nick Sparks), and watching a line of bikers salute each other as they passed each other at the Arkansas/Oklahoma border were the highlights of my day.

The further East I traveled from Oklahoma and into Arkansas, the greener the landscape became, but the worse the drivers were. Nicholas Sparks' book became increasingly more stressful, setting the tone for the rest of the day. By the time I got to Little Rock, Arkansas (why do they pronounce it Arkan-SAW?) I was ready to be completely stationary, sick of almost being sideswiped by truckers and distracted drivers. My Google Map navigator talked me through the roads and I parked in front of Bill Clinton's presidential library. Alright, I thought, thus begins my exploration of Little Rock! I even paid a wee bit extra for the audio tour, knowing I wouldn't have the patience to read signs. Well, what I didn't have patience for was Bill Clinton's voice as he narrated his life to me. Returning to my car, I found that my plant, given to me on Librarian Appreciation Day, was sad and wilting, overcome with heat and exhaustion from our trip (the fourth time I've almost killed it).

A trip to the "Oval Office"

Exterior of the Clinton Presidential Library

Next, I was determined to find Little Rock Central High School, where the Little Rock 9 attended school, as per the suggestion of a RMPL member's wife. While asking locals about it, they asked me, "Well, you're going now, right? In the daylight?" (No, in fact, I wanted to go at 1 AM, buy drugs, and maybe an illegal firearm.) "Yes of course! Why...?" When asking the locals about places I could walk to, people avoided my gaze and told me I shouldn't walk around. Anywhere. Period. I like exploring and I'm a decently stubborn person, so I found all of this extremely frustrating.

Little Rock Central High School

Wanting to be rid of Little Rock and have an early exit this morning, I decided to get out of the city and get a hotel reservation closer to my next destination. If Oklahoma and New Mexico represented the peaceful and personable aspects of a road trip, Arkansas represents the other side of the spectrum entirely.

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Listen along:
Heavenly Day by Patty Griffin
Oxford Town/Cumberland Gap by Crooked Still

Comfort, Strength, Peace, Hope, and Serenity

I left Puerto de Luna with a full stomach and even more food for the road, ready for the next leg of the trip... through Texas. The flat, dry, and extremely monotonous land flew by, courtesy of the mundane, yet all-consuming writings of one Nicholas Sparks. Thank God for Cracker Barrel's audiobook lending system (not to be replaced by your public library for round trip adventures, of course)!

I ended up in a bit of the country called Oklahoma, a special place and my favorite state (overall) so far on this trip. They had the most luxurious rest stop just over the TX border that would put the NYS Thruway to shame and all of the people I met had excellent customer service skills. Realization of the day: I will never completely rely on my smartypants phone for directions. It's much better to chat with locals who can tell you about the road conditions and the best spots to park. In fact, by chatting with the people at your hotel's front desk, you may even get free batteries for your camera when you ask if any are sold nearby. The state was filled with tons of sweet people and good drivers! In addition, Oklahoma City reminded me of Albany, NY complete with a business/government district and similar looking highway bridges all right next to a lovely river.

Yet, the above is a bunch of inconsequential nonsense. The most important thing about Oklahoma City is the Oklahoma City National Memorial. This deserves a whole post of its own or, better yet, it deserves your presence in Oklahoma City.

9:01 Gate symbolizing Oklahoma City's last moment of innocence

 

An illuminated chair for each person killed.

I expect that I lot of people remember where they were on the morning of September 11th quite vividly. But do you remember where you were at 9:02 Central Time on April 19, 1995 when a bomb exploded outside of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building in Oklahoma City? It's strange to feel so connected to a tragedy that happened so far from home, but my family was. We watched the coverage of the Oklahoma City Bombing rescue and recovery efforts every night, we planted a tree named Oklahoma in our front yard, and we wore ribbons of blue, purple and yellow to honor the victims. What touched a lot of people, especially my mom, a federal worker with the Social Security Administration who sent her kids to a government-run daycare and summer camp, was the fact that 19 children died in the bombing. The youngest was 3 months old and in the building to receive his first Social Security card.

The 9:03 Gate represents the first moment of healing

This is the context from which I arrived at the memorial. It is one of the most peaceful and powerful places I have ever visited. I compare it to finding the Southern Cross in the night sky above Cusco, Peru and wishing on shooting stars in Death Valley, CA. The emphasis at the memorial is on survival, strength, and healing. There is a survivor's wall, a survivor's elm tree which caught fire after the blast, and so many stories which I was lucky to hear from the NPS interpreter. I left a note on the fence surrounding the former daycare playground and I left my hand print on the 9:03 Gate, symbolizing the personal impact of the memorial.

Words totally fail. There's so much more to say, but you really need to experience it for yourself.

Expression of grief from rescuers working at the bombing site.

Colorful Colorado to the Land of Enchantment

Against my adventurous judgment, I left the Duffeyroll in Denver early yesterday morning and found myself driving along good ole 25. I intended to take a route through the mountains and past the sand dunes, but the seeds of doubt (that my loaded car might not be able to make it up and over two mountain passes) were planted in my head by an unnamed former roommate (good thing, too). But, mountain pass I did encounter as I crossed the border into New Mexico (yep, I went South!), barely recognizing that I was passing into a state I had never been to before. Luckily, New Mexico likes to advertise they exist, especially since this is their centennial year of statehood, and two additional "Welcome to New Mexico" signs declared that I had entered the "Land of Enchantment." Oooo, ahhhhh (but, what does that mean?)

I took a side trip off the highway in order to explore and be enchanted, arriving at the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe National Historic Trail and walking around the adobe remains of Fort Union (where I was warned to watch for rattlesnakes and lightning). These were lovely and historical, though, quick excursions!

View of the remains of the Fort Union hospital (where doctors dealt with everything from "arrow wounds to childbirth") and the Santa Fe Trail

I didn't become enchanted with New Mexico until visiting the small town of Puerto de Luna. There, I stayed with my mentor/colleague/friend's parents, who graciously welcomed me into their home, fed me some amazing food, gave me a tour of the "neighborhood," and introduced me to their friends. They took me to the capilla dedicated to Santa Ynez, patron saint of laborers, and to the local church that has the most beautiful statue of Mary that I have ever seen. I was introduced to peacocks, dogs, a cat whose back paws have so many toes they look more like rabbit feet than cat feet, and all of the different types of plants in the yard. We played cards and drank wine and I listened to stories until I couldn't keep my eyes open.

On the way to Puerto de Luna

My new-found friends and the little town they live in have been the most enchanting parts of my journey so far. Their generosity at accepting a stranger into their house (and inviting her back to New Mexico during the holidays), the pride with which they talk about family, friends, and where they live, and the easy laughter that accompanied every conversation, made New Mexico an especially enchanting place. What a lovely memory and a perfect end to my first day on the road!

View from the Capilla de Santa Ynez

La Capilla de Santa Ynez

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Roadtrip with me! I'm listening to "Colorado" by Paper Bird.

Precarious and pesky packing

Preparing to travel is a process whether filling up a tank of gas for a spur of the moment road trip or sitting down with a AAA rep to order your TripTik. The most dreaded part of the process for me is packing.

I am my mother's daughter and I was able to fit all of my necessities in my car, but, as I started driving, I realized I will be stuck driving with these so called necessities until I get to NY. It was after this realization that I fully appreciated the joys of backpacking. Sure, your bag might start out weighing twice your own weight. Yes, you might begin the trip cursing those heavy canned goods you just had to bring along. But, the real joy comes in eating and, therefore, lightening your load. My only hope for becoming more minimalist on this trip is to acquire a taste for paper and eat all of those library school notebooks I packed (yes, I know, first mistake).

Otherwise, I made it safely to my first destination! More about today's adventure... tomorrow!

Super Shuttle

I never quite mentioned it, but I did make it to Denver after my road trip West. That being said, I'm currently sitting in the Denver International Airport ready to leave Denver for the holidays.

The Super Shuttle found my little house on our barricaded street and picked me up early. After narrowly avoiding spinning tires on the ice, we rolled out of my neighborhood only to pick up a woman with lots of baggage, an artificial knee, and one of those early morning demeanors where you know she is not used to getting up this early but she has to talk nonstop about the fact that she was all ready to go even though the driver got to her house early and how she's going to Mississippi and how the driver needs to slow down on those turns because the roads are dangerous out there and oh, was that the jazz music or her little dog crying? She had a little dog with her which the driver graciously asked if he could throw in the back with the luggage (it was in a little carry on bag and did not look like a dog at all). Needless to say, the Jazz and the heated van were the highlights of the trip.

My second favorite public artwork in Denver, the rearing Bronco, greeted me with its beady red eyes as we drove up to DIA. Surprisingly, there were no lines at security and I checked my bag "curbside" for the first time ever so I didn't have to wait in a line at the counter. Now I sit with the friendly Southwest employees telling me to look at the lunar eclipse. Lovely!

Missouri Mania

Where is your ideal Labor Day destination? Is it Manhattan, Kansas? Perhaps you've booked your hotel room and used up all of the gas at a roadside Conoco! If so, you win! You beat us. That's right, our attempts at another hotel room with a bedside jacuzzi (or any hotel room) were dashed because of Labor Day travelers. Likewise, we attempted to pump gas at a station completely devoid of the oh-so-necessary fuel! Good thing we had enough gas and Kate just remembered she knows someone in Lawrence, KS!

So, after Kate thinking we were in Kansas during most of our drive through Missouri, we arrived in Kansas City (Missouri). It was pretty, especially the lightning in the backdrop. Big ole raindrops were not so welcoming however. Afraid my car would stall out or I would hydroplane in standing water, we pulled over 10 minutes away from meeting our college friend at our destination: Eden Valley. Finally the rain subsided and we met our friend and my juggling grandfather (the person who taught the person who taught me how to juggle!), Greg! I hadn't seen him in at least 5 years!

Sadly we will miss the Kansas City site that my Grandpa suggested: Subtropolis. It was closed for Labor Day weekend, which makes sense because, although it's completely underground, it is an industrial hub! Next time I pass through this area I also want to visit the Insect Zoo in Manhattan, KS. Perhaps I'll even splurge on a guided tour!


Only one more state to go!

Winding my Way West

When you think about Nashville, you think about country music. But, the question is, do you think about Andrew Jackson? Amanda, my college friend and Murfreesboro tour guide, drove us to The Hermitage, Andrew Jackson's estate. They had a lovely audio walking tour (yay for not having to stop and read things when you are pressed for time!) and gardens with some of my favorite plants: zinnias and oregano!

Rear of The Hermitage

This morning, Kate and I left Amanda and hit the road to Missouri! Half way along the way, we finished our YA audiobook and returned it at one of the millions of Cracker Barrels we've seen along the way. Our adventures in MO have been among my favorite on the whole trip. I tried some genuine St. Louis pretzels and Frozen Custard at Ted Dewes, BUT best of all, I rode a little pod car with four other tourists to the top of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial (aka the St. Louis Arch or the Gateway to the West). So cool! We were 630 ft. in the air with a great view of the Mississippi (which we crossed a whopping 3 times today!), the baseball stadium (where a game was being played!), the Old Courthouse, and the St. Louis Cathedral.

View of stadium and the Old Courthouse from the top of the 630 ft arch!

Apparently we are in the West now!